Shoe machine



l. l. HERSEY SHOE MACHINE Nov. 29, 1949 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed May 15, 1946 $209 71107 lraeZIHe/sgy Nov. 29, 1949 I 1. HERSEY 2,4 89,641

I SHOE MACHINE Filed May 15, 1946 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 VIlII/l/l/I [ill/17101110111,

Patented Nov. 29, 1949 UNITED 1 STATES PATENT OFFICE -T'SHOE MACHINE lsrael l. Hersey-Beverly, Mass.',' a;s'signor:to'-United zz Shoe Machinery'corporation, Flemingtmn N. J.,

acjcorporation. of: New Jersey Application May 15, 1946, Sria1"NoT669,815

9; Claims.

P The present invention relates to improvements in shoe --machines, and m'ore particularly -'to a *mac-hineior sewing the inseam andfor trimming the sewn inseam-of a shoe.

It is a principal object'of the"inventionto pro- *vide a shoe-machinewhich will'be-of'relatively simple and compactconstru'ction; and w-illoperate "in asatisfactory manner for "the --pe'rforma-n'ce0f an inseam sewing operation upon a-*--shoe,- and for the trimming-of thesewrr'inseam in a *single operation about the-'sole"-margin-of theshoB.

'It is another objectof theinventiontoprovide a shoe machineofthis general descriptiorrhaw supporting vand; guiding. rmeansxadazpted (for 4 the 4 assistance ofrthe .operatomto'? maintain the shoe in the proper relation to each of the inseam :sewing and vinseam-trimming.1m'echanismsispaced a V substantial distance :from :one= another-. alonglthe line of feed as their-point of;op.eration.:is:transferred about themargin: of. the 'shoe sole.

With these and other-objects;inuview:assmay hereinafter appear; a. feature:;:of.theiinuention consists in theprovision of: ashoe' machine'ih'av- 'ing a sewing mechanism for:.sewingx-anrinseam, an inseam trimming mechanismispacedifrom the sewing mechanism intheilineoi ieedior trimming a portion of theinseam comprised bmportions of the channel lip. or rib; uppersande-welt which have been'idrawn firmly together: and-:set by previously completedestitches'-.of1 they-seam, and work feeding andguidingrdevices;adapted for the assistanceaof; the operator to maintain the shoe in the proper relation-ate eachaofithe inseam sewing and inseamtrimmingmechanisms and to transfer thepointof operations aboutathe sole margin of the shoe.

Another feature. of =the==invention; consists in the provision. of. ant oscillatoryMtrimming-u-,knife 2 the *inseam-to' trim that portion ci -the inseam drawn in and =held-by the last completed stitch,

'- and which is mounted for this "purpose at that side of the needle-"with the completed stitches "of the seam tomove as a unit-therewith.

Antitherfeatura of the inventiorr consistsin the "provision or an" anvil member which serves "toasuppo'rtthe inseam against the thrust of the knife; is provided" with a downwardly extending to -serve as a 'stationary thread-finger .to provide post --'which-tracks *in the bottom ofthe stitch receiving channel to locate the sewn port/ion of the inseam accurately with relation to' the' trimming knife; and with a projecting arm which-extends substantially acrossthe pla'ne 'of operation oi the needle and above thepathofthe needle a -more accurate-control of 4 'the thread --during the. needlethreading-V. or looping operationand during the Jmovement of the movable thread finger. to give up slack threaditoltheneedle during its toop' drawing 'stroke.

. The several features of :the 1 invention 1 consist s also in the. devices; combinationsv and; arrangewhichsisw arranged. tosmoveL transversely across ment of partszhereinafter' described and; claimed which, together with the advantages tonbe ob- ..tained thereby; will: be readily;.understo0d :by. lone skilled in the art :from theffollowing description taken in connection ."with'zzthe :accompan'ying drawings;v in which z'E-ig. 1 is a cviewcinrightnsideIelevation1illustrating: anportiohof :the' sewing;head.'of1.an inseamkshoe..sewingamachine, only so muchiof the machine; having been i: 'diSCIOSEdQaSTFiS believed necessary to; illustrate e the ew'connection"; of ethe present inventiomtherewith Fig. 2 is a detail view inifront "elevation," partly in section,;.illustrating particularly-the sewing and work guiding: devices; I 7 Big; 3, is; a 'viewdn right .-side elevation of the partsshownin Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a view similar. to Fig. 2,- but with r the ,-parts=in. a different position, in-'which the thread finger-is retractednto thelimit of its 'bight form- :ing stroke and Fig. 5 is: a-viewinright sidezelevation of -the parts in the-position shown in EigA.

The -machine: disclosed in thedrawings as illustrating in a preferred-form the several; features of the presentinvention, comprises a welt sewing machine ior attaching. the: welt .tothe insole and associatedupperof .aushoe mountedon awlast, and is substantiallyidentical! inits construction andmode of operation .with the machine -disclosed in United-t- States Letters 'Patentto: [Ep- Tpler .No, 1, :1-.08;5.60,granted August 25 :19-14. The

shoe sewing mechanism of the machine comprises a curved hook needle 20, a needle guide 22, a looper 24, a take-up 26, an auxiliary take-up 28 and a thread finger 3i] movable to supply slack thread to the needle, together with a back rest 32 and a welt guide 34 for supporting and guiding the work with relation to the sewing mechanism.

In accordance with the present invention,

there is also provided an inseam trimming mechanism which is constructed and arranged to trim a sewn portion of the inseam comprised by the channel lip of the insole, the upper and welt, which have been drawn firmly together and set by the completed stitches of the seam.

In accordance with the usual construction of inseam sewing machines of the type illustrated, the needle 20 is mounted on a needle segment 4d mounted to turn on a stationary bearing and externally supported in a raceway 48 on the machine'frame. In the illustrated machine, the awl has been omitted. The channel guide 36 is movable in the line of feed to feed the work, and to this end is mounted on a feed slide generally indicated at 48 which is reciprocated in the line of feed by means of a cam actuated feed lever 59. The feed lever 55? is supported at its forward end to turn about a fixed pivot and is connected to move the feed slide through connections including a block 52 adjustably supported in a slotted portion of the lever 59 and arranged to engage in a guideway 54 formed in the bottom side of the feed slide 68. The needle segment 44 is actuated from the reciprocable needle lever generally indicated at Ell (Fig. l) which is connected by means of a curved link 62 to a pivot pin 64 on the needle segment 44. The needle guide 22 is mounted on a pivot pin 65 to turn coaxially with the needle segment 44, and is positively actuated through connections which include a gear segment 66 rigidly secured to the pin 65, and a cam actuated lever 63 supported to turn on a pivot ill, and having formed at its forward end a gear segment 12 which meshes with the segment 66.

The thread finger St is pivotally supported for movement rearwardly to engage with and form a bight in the thread extending from the looper to the work, and then forwardly to give up the slack thread thus provided to the needle during its retracting stroke. The main take-up of the machine is of usual construction consisting of the take-up lever 26 which is cam actuated and has mounted thereon a thread truck 16. The auxiliary take-up consists of the auxiliary takeup lever 28 having a thread truck 18 mounted thereon. The auxiliary take-up lever 28 is pressed upon by a spring actuated plunger as. This plunger is mounted in a vertical guideway in the frame of the machine, and its upper end is acted upon by a coil spring 82 seated in a recess in the machine frame. The auxiliary take-up is thus spring pressed, its upward movements being resisted by the tension of the spring 82. The thread indicated at 84, after passing over the tension wheel at the rear of the machine, passes over a guide truck 86, then under the truck it of the auxiliary take-up, and then over the truck 16 of the main take-up. The arrangement of these trucks is such that during the rising movement of the main take-up, the auxiliary takeup is moved upward, and during the falling movement of the main take-up, the auxiliary take-up is allowed to fall and maintain a tension on the thread determined by the strength of the spring 82 and the relative positions of the three trucks. The main take-up falls during the thread pulling movement to to the thread finger, during the looping movements of the looper, and during the retracting stroke of the needle. In accordance with the usual practice to prevent the auxiliary take-up from stealing thread from the thread finger 36 during its loop delivery or forward stroke, and while the needle is making the first part of its retracting stroke, a stop 88 is provided to limit the forward movement of the auxiliary take-up, which stop is engaged by an adjustable abutment screw 90 mounted in the auxiliary take-up lever 28. The stop 88 and abutment screw 99 are so arranged with relation to the falling movement of the take-up and the thread delivering stroke of the thread finger, that the falling movement of the auxiliary take-up must stop before the thread finger 30 begins its thread delivering stroke. Inasmuch as the construction and arrangement of the thread handling instrumentalities thus far described are substantially that illustrated in the Eppler patent above referred to, no further description or illustration thereof is believed necessary.

In accordance with the invention, an inseam trimming mechanism is provided which comprises an inseam trimming knife 96 secured in a curved guideway 9'5 formed integrally with the needle segment 54. The knife 93 is located at the left side of the needle with the completed stitches of the seam, and is spaced therefrom to cause the knife to trim a portion of the inseam held together by the last completed stitch of the seam. The knife is supported to turn about the same center with the needle, but on a shorter radius, so that it passes transversely across the seam above the line of stitching. The cutting edge of the knife 96 is set at an angle to cause it the knife to make a shearing cut.

ill

-movement of the needle.

Further in accordance with the invention, there is provided an anvil member 98 which rides in the stitch receiving channel and is arranged to support the sewn inseam against the thrust of the knife 96. The anvil member 98 comprises an arm extending lengthwise of the line of feed and with the shank portion me thereof located at that side of the sewing point toward the completed stitches of the seam. The upper edge of the anvil member is shaped to provide a cooperating shearing edge with relation to which the knife acts.

The anvil member 98 has formed on the under side thereof a downwardly extending foot or post I02 which rides in the base of the stitch receiving channel and serves to locate that portion of the shoe being operated upon accurately with relation to the inseam trimming knife.

The anvil member 98 is further constructed and arranged to assist in the control of the thread by the thread handling devices, being provided with an extension I84 along the stitch receiving channel passing substantially across the plane of operation of the needle and above the path of The extension le'l i serves as a stationary thread finger which cooperates specifically with the movable thread finger 30 to maintain an accurate control of the thread during the stitch forming operation which will with certainty prevent the thread from following into the path of movement of the inseam trimming knife 96.

As best shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, the anvil member 98 is secured by means of screws 2 to a support H4 which is mounted for for- I32. ment of the. anvil member 98-:lengthwise of the increment to feed the shoe. embodiment of the invention, the shoe isfurther A clamping screw 12E) which .:.:extends cure the support I I4 into the bracket 11181111116 desired adjustment. Thezueshapedbracket H8 is pivotally mountedwon a bushing I24, andis rigidly clamped in thedesired position of. angular adjustment with relation .thereto, by means .of

a clamping screw :the two arms .of the..U..-shaped bracket and through an axial. bore in .the bushing 124.

I26 .which passes through The bushing I24..is carriedr'in abearing formed in a bracket I28 which is secured by means. of screws I30 to the front side of the sewing head In order to providean additional adjuststitch receiving channeLthe bushing :I 24, is 'arranged for axial .adjustmentin-its bearing, and;

is clamped rigidlyin position by means of a clamping pin I3 1 having one. sideflattened at I 36 for engagement with acorresponding flat I 38 in the bushing I24. The engagingflattened portions I36, I38 serve .to key the. bushing I24 against rotational movement in its bearing while permitting axial adjustment thereof. tA nut Mil screw-threaded to the clamping pin I34 serves to clamp the bushing I24 rigidly in adjusted position.

In the operation of the machine, the shoe is guided and advanced in the usual mannerwith relation to the sewing mechanism beingvsupported against the back rest 32 and welt guide 34 and being further controlled by theichannel guide 36 to which is imparted. a reciprocating In the illustrated guided and located by means of the post razor the anvil member 98 which tracks in'thestitch 40 receiving channel and further functions to locate that portion of the sole margin of1the shoe at which the inseam trimming operation upon the sewn inseam is being performed. During the operation of the illustrated machine, the shoe is.

therefore supported and.; guidedwith respect to the operating devices at twoseparated points along the margin of the shoe sole. The second point of support of the shoe with-respect to the inseam trimming knife is Ofsubstantial assistance to the operator to maintain the shoeinits .proper operating relation to, each of the sewing and inseam trimming mechanisms as the operation is transferred about the sole margin of the shoe. The anvil member 98, also, provides support for the shoe against the thrust of the knife which would otherwise tend to swing the shoe out of position about a fulcrum provided by the engagement of the channel guide with the stitch receiving channel.

As will be evident from an inspection of the drawings, the inseam trimming knife acts to trim that portion of the sewn inseam held together by the last completed stitch of the seam, the operation of the knife being timed with the advancing movement of the needle to trim the inseam only after the previous stitch has been finally drawn in and after the work has been fed preparatory for the advancing movement of the needle to receive and. to draw a new loop of thread through the work.

During the stitch forming operation, the thread handling devices, including particularly the anvil member 98, act to support and to control the movement of the thread so that the possibility of u to draw off additional thread from the supply.-

1 The auxiliary take-up 28isLsimultaneously= moved upwardly bythetension on the thread against :Jthe pressure of its spring. 'Thereaften the-takeupstarts its downward movementgiving g-up thread first to thethread fi-nger and looperyand fithen to the needle as it is withdrawn throughthe --work. The-movable thread finger 30* startsr'to move rearwardly from'the position shown-in 'Fig. 1 3" to draw a bight of' slack thread before'pthe needle and inseam' trimming knife associated therewith-have completed*-their-' work piercing movements. The anvil member 981s particularly constructed and arranged to support the thread in position for the" most-efficient operation offjthe thread handling devices, and away from the path of movement of the inseam trimming knife. jDuring the rearward thread drawing movement and subsequent forward thread giving ,movementof "the thread finger 3%}, both legs ofv the bightof "thread held by the 'thread ;finger. areen aged around the extension TIM of the. anvil,member.98, so that the lengths ofjthread extending from the previously formed stitch in the seam, and from the needle, as it is drawn into-the work .are. at. all times guided directlyv away fromthesewingrib and away from the path of movement of theinseam trimming knife 98. During the, continued retracting movement of the, needle, the thread [finger 30 is returned toits initial position shown .in Fig. 3 and the thread released therefrom-still guided by. the finger projection I04, is drawn down ..tightly into the base of the'stitch receivingchan- ,nel to draw in the. stitch holding together the parts of the inseam whichwillthen be trimmed -oif by the knife v96 during the next advancing movement of the needle.

I It will be understood that the invention :is.not limited to the specific embodiment shown,::and .that various deviations may be made therefrom without departing from the spiritand; scopezof .the appended claims. What is claimed: is: 1. An inseam chainstitch shoe sewing machine ;havin in combination; ymechanism :for,;sewing the inseam of a welted shoe including a curved hook needle, and an inseam trimming knife supported to move as a unit with the needle and spaced therefrom at that side of the needle with the completed stitches of the seam to trim surplus stock from a sewn portion of the inseam.

2. An inseam chainstitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, a curved hook needle, a looper, a thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, and an inseam trimming knife arranged for oscillatory movement transversely across the line of stitching and located at that side of the needle with the completed stitches of the seam to trim that portion of the inseam held together by the last completed stitch.

3. An inseam chainstitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, sewing mechanism comprising a curved hook needle, a looper, a thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, and an inseam trimming mechanism arranged at that side of the needle with the com- 7 pleted stitches of the seam, said trimming mechanism comprising a knife edge arranged for oscillatory movement transversely across the line of stitching for trimming the sewn inseam, and means for guiding the shoe with relation to each of said sewing and trimming mechanisms.

4. An inseam chainstitch shoe sewing machine for sewing together associated shoe parts includ ing the insole arranged to provide a sewing rib with a stitch receiving channel at the base thereof in the insole having, in combination, a curved ing rib against the thrust of the knife.

5. An inseam chainstitch shoe sewing machine for sewing together associated shoe parts including the insole arranged to provide a sewing rib with a stitch receiving channel at the base thereof in the insole having, in combination, a curved hook needle, a looper, a thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, and an inseam trimming mechanism arranged at that side of the needle with the completed stitches of the seam to trim the sewn inseam, said trimming mechanism comprising a knife supported to move as a unit with the needle, and spaced therefrom at that side of the needle with the completed stitches of the seam, and an anvil in the stitch receiving channel for supporting the sewing rib against the thrust of the knife.

6. In an inseam chainstitch shoe sewing machine, the combination of a curved hook needle, 2. looper, a thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, an inseam trimming knife supported to move as a unit with the needle, and spaced therefrom to trim the sewn portion of the inseam, and an anvil comprising a downwardly extending channel engaging post, a shearing surface over which the knife passes, and a thread engaging arm extending substantially across the plane of operation of the needle and above the path of needle movement.

7. In an inseam chainstitch shoe sewing machine, the combination of a curved hook needle, a looper, a thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, an inseam trimming knife supported to move as a unit with the needle, and spaced therefrom to trim the sewn portion of the inseam, and an'anvilcomprising a shearing surface over which the knife passes, and a thread engaging arm for positioning the portion of the thread extending between the needle and the thread finger during the loop drawing stroke of the needle.

8. An inseam chainstitch shoe sewing machine for sewing together associated shoe parts including the insole arranged to provide a sewing rib with a stitch receiving channel at the base thereof in the insole having, in combination, sewing mechanism including a curved hook needle, a thread finger movable to. supply slack thread to the needle, an inseam trimming mechanism comprising a trimming knife located at that side of the needle with the completed stitches of the seam for trimming the sewn inseam, a channel guide for guiding the shoe with relation to the sewing mechanism, and a separate guide engaging in said stitch receiving channel adjacent the point of operation of said trimming knife upon the sewn inseam.

9. An inseam chainstitch shoe sewing machine for sewing together associated shoe parts including the insole arranged to provide a sewing rib with a stitch receiving channel at the base thereof in the insole having, in combination, sewing mechanism including a curved hook needle, a thread finger movable to supply slack thread to the needle, a channel guide, an inseam trimming mechanism comprising a knife edge moving transversely across the line of stitching, and located at that side of the needle with the completed stitches of the seam for trimming the completed portions of the inseam, an anvil engaging in said stitch receiving channel adjacent the point of operation of the trimming knife edge upon the sewn inseam for supporting the sewing rib against the thrust of the knife edge, and supporting means for said anvil adjustable in a plurality of planes for adjusting the position of the anvil.

ISRAEL I. HERSEY.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,222,972 Ashworth Nov. 26, 1940 2,327,125 Quinn Aug. 17, 1943 

